0

风衣的前肩胸覆片是做什么用的?

无需收藏、调出本文 - 公众号“宋世泊”
能搜索的随身男装手册
原创消费豪品体验,高端定制参考
少走弯路,省时省钱
Slider

这种双排扣风衣,复古版也叫做“堑壕风衣”,源自军用的防风雨服,注重功能性,尤其是防风雨方面。单排扣风衣就不能这么叫了,那不是复古堑壕版。

堑壕风衣胸挡片的主要作用是:扣覆在对侧的衣襟上,避免风雨渗入前胸。因为自上至下的雨水最重,且是流动的。也因为一般只往一个方向扣,所以只有一侧有挡片。

堑壕风衣其它部件诸如袖口收紧带领后收紧带都是为了防风防雨肩部延伸到后背的覆片,和右前胸的覆片共同组成防风雨渗入的系统。

如下这样扣起,可阻止风雨从侧方或上方灌入胸部。如图,以仕族的经典款风衣为例展示全部扣起的状态:

没扣的样子,注意和提问中附图的对比,看不到胸片的扣子了。

背部,肩背处有增强覆片。

现在的作用1:复古款风衣采用这种设计,不光有原汁原味的经典,同样有防风雨功能。

现在的作用2:现代版风衣保留了此外观设计,但无法如图示那样扣好(提问中的图就是例子,肩覆片的扣子太靠外,无法覆盖到前襟之上),起到的作用是装饰,填补胸肩部的空白点。

 

网上许多资料说,这个肩胸覆片是枪托垫。这个我粗略研究过,个人认为不是。理由:

  1. 以射击之反作用力,这样没有填充物的薄薄一片,缓冲功能接近于无,说是耐磨层还勉强。军服的枪托垫设计应有填充或加厚的,且一般是附着在防弹背心或携弹背心上;
  2. 就战斗这个功能来说,如果接近大衣的风雨衣加装枪托垫,上装更应有枪托垫功能。而英军同时期的作战上装,没有枪托垫设计,个别有左右补丁设计(个人以为,那个补丁叫“背带耐磨层”更合适),事实上现代的枪托垫大多装在作战背心上了;
  3. 老牌厂商如巴宝莉等经典复刻款的风衣,肩胸覆片均必须在风衣前襟全部扣起时起到覆盖上部作用单纯枪托垫功能完全不需要这样。

譬如我的风衣,巴宝莉风衣london版,产地英格兰,领口前方的系带(束住领口防风雨),还有肩章、胸口挡片,以及腰间手雷扣环(图中未拍出)都在,应该算经典堑壕版吧。

大家看一下右胸三角形的布片,做为重要的复古元素,如果是枪托垫,不太可能做成这个形状(承受枪托的肩部没有遮挡,挡片变成胸前的三角形),看起来更像是风雨挡。(这是经典版风衣,但作为单个例子,仅为以上疑点的佐证之一)

再看这张补充实拍,可以看到,挡片后最接近领口处有一颗大扣。如图,这颗扣子是系住衣服左前片的。

这是防雨防寒时放下挡片并扣好挡片扣的样子。注意图中圆圈处,这个地方下面有一颗大大的扣子。就想问,大风大雨天如果把枪托放在这,如此不规则的起伏,还能瞄准么?

我不太盲从网上资料,喜欢琢磨,意见必定有偏颇主观之处,欢迎指正:-)

 

 

以上的观点,系我个人看法。今天又特地谷歌了英文“gun flap”(实际上有些图解也会标注为STORM FLAP也即暴雨挡片)这个组合,搜索英文讨论类的内容,可以看到几种意见为:

1.从名称,枪挡。持此意见者大多数沿袭字面简单答复,无具体研究解释。

2.名称纯系误传,实为风雨挡片。

I checked with my friend EJ, the most knowledgeable person on these matters that I know, and this is what he wrote back:”The confusion seems to come from the fact that most gun flaps today aren’t really properly cut. The flap is essentially a “capelet”, designed to button over and keep water from running into the upper corner on the buttoned side of the coat. If you button up a trench coat, you may notice that the part just infront of the collarbone is just one piece of fabric on top of the other, and the overlap is open on the top edge. This lets water in, and if you raise yr arms (for any reason, but for example, shouldering a rifle), it has a tendency to open up even more by separating the lower and overlapping side of the coat. The gun flap covers it. It all seems vy arcane and fussy (which it is), but it’s also vy Victorian……

Storm (Gun) Flap – Assumed by many to be padding for a rifle butt, the “gun” flap is actually a protective flap to ensure water does not slip into the jacket as it runs down the shoulders.

 

3.因士兵举枪时,风雨易于入内,增加此挡片,名为“枪挡”实为“风雨挡”。

Storm (Gun) Flap – Assumed by many to be padding for a rifle butt, the “gun” flap is actually a protective flap to ensure water does not slip into the jacket as it runs down the shoulders.It effectively serves as a cap, keeping the wearer dry, assuming he has on headwear.We see it on the right side for men and on the left side for women as the jacket buttons up in opposite ways for the different genders.The reference to this flap being a gun flap is probably due to it being requested during WWI when officers complained about water seeping into the coats after firing their rifles.The raising of the right arm opened up and exposed the early trench coat’s breast fold to the elements – not something you want in a downpour…

目前搜到的观点均缺乏符合历史考证要求的证据,大家可择而信之。从主观角度,我个人赞同第二第三种意见,纯属出于可用性考虑,认为风雨挡是这个设计最终的“演变”。

欢迎有时间、有兴趣的知友进行深度考证,就算打了我的脸也没关系。

Slider


  • Share post

已有 0 条评论